Dream Deli in the Richmond neighborhood blends Jewish and Italian deli traditions to a delicious effect.
When my family dropped by Dream Deli a month after the shop first opened, we didn’t expect to find the place packed with multigenerational families enjoying lunch in the small dining area and a line to order at the counter. Neighbors in Southeast’s Richmond neighborhood were already flocking to this delicatessen that serves up sandwiches, salads and baked goods that are a blend of Jewish and Italian deli traditions with a Pacific Northwest modern twist.
The line abuts the kitchen and it moved quickly during our visit. We were able to spy staff preparing orders, including a radicchio salad with chickpeas and breadcrumbs ($12 , pictured below) that my husband and I decided we needed to try. My husband was very tempted to order the corned beef sandwich on marble rye he saw going out on a tray, but decided to go with the whitefish salad melt on sourdough ($16). He’s a seafood lover and said it was very good. I tried the veggie “meatloaf” sandwich on tender milk bread ($14). The sandwich was beautiful to look at. It was like a root vegetable terrine with a rainbow of thin slices of beet, winter squash and possibly celeriac. Crispy onions gave it a salty kick. It was very different from any other sandwich I’ve ever had and I did enjoy it. The sandwiches came with a half sour pickle, which tasted super fresh even if it is not my favorite pickle profile. I offered it to my younger kiddo who loves all sorts of pickles and his eyes immediately went wide when he tried it. He quickly finished it off for me. My husband and I also really liked the bitterness and crunch of the radicchio salad, though I do think it could have benefitted from a bit more salt.
For my kids who oddly don’t like sandwiches, I suggested they split the Jewish wedding soup ($14), which contained meatballs and matzo balls. And they got focaccia ($2) and the pretzel ($5) from the daily specials board. We were served our baked items right away, so the kids dug into the breads. “We should order five of these,” said my 13-year-old about the focaccia oozing olive oil. And my 11-year-old said he loved the pretzel when I asked if he liked it. The pretzel was sweeter and softer than a typical pretzel.
When the rest of our order came out, I loved that the kitchen had split the soup into two bowls without me specifically asking for it. It was such a nice, kid-friendly touch. My older child excitedly said the soup tasted like gravy. The broth was incredibly rich and studded with carrots and celery. The kids loved the meatballs and broth, but it was their first time trying matzo balls and sadly they just weren’t that into them. (I need to have them keep trying them!) I scarfed down their leftover dumplings and they were delicious. They also tried the preserved lemon housemade soda ($5), which was flavorful, but not tangy or overly sweet.
And finally we had to try some of the housemade desserts. A browned butter hazelnut cookie sold out right before we reached the counter, so we tried the quince rugelach ($3) and schmaltz chocolate chip cookie ($5). I’ve only had chocolate rugelach before and the small, pinwheel-shaped quince version was delightful. My family was divided over the chocolate chip cookie. My husband and younger child thought the schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) imparted a slightly savory flavor to the cookie and my older kiddo and I only tasted the chocolate.
A few things to keep in mind: The space is tight and seating is limited. We saw a couple of parents struggling to maneuver their strollers, so it might be best to leave your prams at home. The place was bustling, so my kids ended up with counter seating and my husband and I were at a table nearby. If your kids aren’t old enough to sit a table away, consider getting your order to go. We did not see any high chairs and while several babies were in the deli, there wasn’t a changing table in the restroom (but there were two stands pushed together that might do in a pinch).
Overall my family really enjoyed Dream Deli. I don’t think I’d order the veggie meatloaf sandwich again, but because everything was fresh and inventive, I would like to go back and try some different items from the menu.
More Delis to Try:
Elephants Delicatessen With several westside locations, Elephants serves up deli soups and sandwiches, plus burgers, pizza, cookies and other family-friendly offerings. Elephantsdeli.com
Ben & Esther’s Vegan Delicatessen Vegan families can still get their brisket or Rueben fix at this Northeast deli, the whole menu is plant-based. Benandesthers.com
Sebastiano’s House-baked focaccia is the base for all the sandwiches at this Sicilian deli in the Sellwood neighborhood. Don’t miss the sweet treats either, like the torta caprese and sweet crostata. Eatsebs.com.
If You Go:
Dream Deli, 3542 SE Division St., dreamdelipdx.com.
Open Tuesday through Saturday, 11 am-3 pm.
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